MYTCARD for "DIGIPHOTO GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS" by F. H. TONG

GUIDE FOR USING MYTCARD

This method is used to check on site whether a demanding highlight or shadow details could be exposed correctly. No matter how advance and accurate the metering system of a digital camera is, the measuring result is, however, based on the metering zone. Our subject may not be positioned according to the metering system and even so, only us can determinate which part is most important.

With digital camera, we can review the image. But as we all know, the LCD display employed a different output system other than the computer monitor or printing device. It can only be a kind of reference. MYTCARD Method is designed to overcome the problem so that we can see instantly whether there is any exposure compensation needed.

WHO NEED TO USE

Users whose cameras have exposure compensation.

Users who have not yet mastered the exposure control.

Users who care for the details in their images.

Users who can arrange testing shots.

WHO NEED NOT TO USE

Users whose cameras without exposure compensation.

Users who fully master the exposure control.

Users who do not care for highlight or shadow details of their images.

Professionals who work with full system to monitor the results.

Photographers specified in taking action shots etc. where it is not possible to take test shots.

PREPARATION

Take the MYTCARD file to the digital output lab with the following requirements:

A. Print onto a 4R photo matt surface paper.

B. Ask the lab to use a channel with no preset adjustment and print it with all normal including contrast and colours. The white and black letter ¡¥BEST¡¦ must be visible and easily recognised.

C. Mount the 4R on a cardboard 5 X 6 inches leaving the space on the left-hand side for holding.

D. It would be good to have another cardboard with same size with white and black on each side.

USAGE INSTRUCTION

1. The MYTCARD should occupy as small as possible in the frame, just enough for us to see the letters will do.

2. The position of the MYTCARD must be parallel to the plane of chosen subject. Otherwise, the illumination on the MYTCARD cannot represent the subject details.

3. As the shutter release of camera is always on the right hand side, therefore the space provided for holding is always on the left so that we can hold the card before the camera and press the shutter release.

4. Holding the MYTCARD by us is suitable for wide-angle to normal shot only. If we have to use longer focal length (zooming in), then we may have to ask our subject to hold the MYTCARD or place it at suitable location. In this case, the little white margin of the MYTCARD would not affect the metering normally.

5. For beginners, it is advised to keep the MYTCARD as far as possible and close to the left hand side avoiding the middle of the view that would affect the metering.

For experienced users, the following can be applied.

If the composition is comprised of more white/bright or black/dark area, when the MYTCARD is put into the view, it may affect the original metering. If so, then use the WHITE/BLACK card to solve the problem. Putting the WHITE side or BLACK side of the additional card behind the MYTCARD. Choose WHITE side facing out when there is more WHITE area and BLACK side facing out when there is more BLACK area. The proportion of the additional card shown to the camera depends on the actual situation.

With COMPACT digital camera, the PREVIEW can somehow be used for checking the right combination. If the image shown has suddenly brightened or darkened when MYTCARD is placed in front of the camera, then we need to adjust the proportion of the WHITE/BLACK card.

With SLR digital camera, just choose Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority. The corresponding Shutter Speed or Aperture Number will tell if the MYTCARD would affect the metering.

6. Do not trust the preview to determinate the exposure. Previewing is not based on the same exposure setting.

Take the test shot and see the REVIEW. Then check the following table for exposure compensation.

For easy operation, the following table is summarized for quick reference. White "BEST" is called W-BEST and black "BEST" is called K-BEST.

TEST SHOT	REVIEW	MAJOR REQUIREMENT	EXP. COMPENSATION with 0.5 inc.
W-BEST	K-BEST
No	Yes	If the subject must have highlight details	-2 if the letter is totally invisible -1.5 if the letter is difficult to see -1 if the letter is not clear -0.5 if the letter is a bit unclear
Yes	No	If the subject must have shadow details	+2 if the letter is invisible +1.5 if the letter is difficult to see +1 if the letter is not clear +0.5 if the letter is a bit unclear
Yes	Yes	All requirements	No adjustment needed

TEST SHOT	REVIEW	MAJOR REQUIREMENT	EXP. COMPENSATION with 1/3 inc.
W-BEST	K-BEST
No	Yes	If the subject must have highlight details	-2 if the letter is totally invisible -12/3 if the letter is extremely difficult to see -11/3 if the letter is difficult to see -1 if the letter is not clear -2/3 if the letter is quite unclear -1/3 if the letter is a bit unclear
Yes	No	If the subject must have shadow details	+2 if the letter is totally invisible +12/3 if the letter is extremely difficult to see +11/3 if the letter is difficult to see +1 if the letter is not clear +2/3 if the letter is quite unclear +1/3 if the letter is a bit unclear
Yes	Yes	All requirements	No adjustment needed

The suggested exposure compensation is for general cases. If highlight detail is not essential, then omit the WHITE "BEST". If shadow detail is not essential, then omit the BLACK "BEST".

If exposure compensation is needed then make adjustment accordingly and take the second test and check again.

There may be case that even plus or minus 2 will not be enough. But since we shall take the second test, further adjustment may be needed.

SOME NOTES

What is highlight detail?

That is that area in a photo just dark enough to show details. If the exposure were more than required, then this area would become white.

What is a shadow detail?

That is that area in a photo just bright enough to show details. If the exposure were less than required, then this area would become black.

Can we get back the highlight or shadow detail of an image with software?

No, all software cannot bring back lost detail. Remember that when a shadow detail area has been under-exposed, it might not be distinguished from black anymore and all become zero. Any adjustment would not work with zero value and impossible to bring back the details. The same would happen to highlight detail with white. When highlight details have been over-exposed, then all would become 255 same as white. There is no way to get the highlight details back.

REMINDER

The MYTCARD Method has been tested and adjusted for a long time. To make sure that this method can be understood and applied by beginners, I have arranged the on-site test with some people who do not have any photographic knowledge. It took a few minutes to learn the proper way of use.

Of course, when we use exposure compensation, some colours would be affected. It is the same as when exposure was over or under. As a rule of thumb, we need to get everything recorded. Even that means we may have contrast or brightness defects. The lab or us can solve these problems.

It is certain that exposure compensation may not be needed every time. The problem is how do we know? The MYTCARD Method is to find out whether exposure compensation is needed.

I have mentioned earlier that nowadays we do not have big mistakes. Even without the MYTCARD Method or not using the review, the photos may look good. However, we shall always want to get the best we can and not rely on pure luck. Especially, we do not want to have any defects on some beloved images. In other words, I do not suggest using the MYTCARD Method every time we take photos. No matter how easy it is, we still need to spend time and effort. In fact, when we have experience, we can know which type of situation the automatic exposure may fail to give us what we want.

OUR WEB SITE FOR LATEST INFORMATION FOR MYTCARD METHOD: www.mytcard.com